I’m so excited to announce that my wearable items – A12, R48 (all colors), and USB Li-Ion Charger are now available at Maker Shed!
You can find them at the New Arrival section.
I’m very excited to announce that now some of my LED wearables are sold at Adafruit!
See the “New Products” video – my wearables are on at 13:35.
R48 wearable LED accessory is now (finally!) available with 4 different color LEDs. In addition to blue, red, green and white LED versions are now available.
Thank you so much for waiting.
I have a limited supply of laser-cut acrylic case for Color Organ Triple Deluxe II available. This is one time offer, the cases won’t be available again once the supply is gone.
(The case kit does not include the knob.)
|Color Organ Triple Deluxe II Acrylic Case :
Recently purchased T962A reflow oven. There were a couple of issues that I dealt with. Please see the Instructable on what I did.
Hello West Coast! I will be exhibiting at the Maker Faire Bay Area on May 18 & 19th.
This is the largest of Maker Faire, so I will be bringing a lot of stuff, some of which are not yet seen by anyone. (yes I’ve been working hard)
Please come see me and hundreds of great makers at this event. It will be exciting!
I made a laser cut acrylic enclosure for Color Organ Triple Deluxe II.
It’s a very simple design, but very functional. Built with laser cut acrylic and screws and nuts only. No filing, glueing or bending.
You can download the design file, and laser cut 3mm acrylic. I used Ponoko, but you should be able to use any services available.
Use my design as is, or customize as you like.
You will also need four 1 inch, #2-56 machine screws and nuts, such as these.
Now those who are not into surface mount soldering can build Aurora color organ (or VU meter)!
The circuit is exactly the same as the original surface mount version of Audio Interface.
You can watch the video here.
The interface goes between the power cable and Aurora, using Molex 3 pin connectors. The interface has a 3.5mm stereo audio jack, so you can connect any audio output. There’s a potentiometer to adjust the sensitivity level as well.
Aurora 12 bar, Aurora 9×18 mk2 and Aurora 18×18 have audio or “color organ” modes, which you can select by either pushing the on board button or using a remote control (remote not on Aurora 12 bar).
I revised the international shipping fees. The recent changes of postal fees made it very difficult to provide reasonable shipping fees to non-US customers. However I’ve signed up with a bulk mailing service, which made possible to reduce international shipping fees.
You will notice “International Economy” shipping option when you go through the checkout. The orders will be shipped via USPS First Class mail, which is very economical. Please note, however this option does not provide any tracking. If you want tracking and quicker delivery, please consider “International Express Air”. “International Priority Air” is quicker than Economy, but still doesn’t provide tracking…
Due to Hurricane Sandy, we are experiencing shipping delays. Our area did not get much damage, but postal service is not working.
I think everything will go back to normal in a couple of days.
*** UPDATE: We are back to normal. USPS is reporting normal delivery. ***
A new function has been added to Wave JT. It’s auto-changer or “demo” mode. With this mode activated, Wave JT will change the animation pattern every minute. (Hence the word demo.)
You can activate this new function by holding the button down at the startup (when power is off). After each of eight LEDs has lit once, all LEDs will blink eight times. If you release the button within this period, the demo mode will be activated.
Wave JT only keeps this setting until powered down, so to get out of demo mode, turn off the power, and tap on the button again to turn on the unit.
The kits are now being shipped with this new firmware.
Please come see me at the Maker Faire NY this weekend.
I have some goodies for you! Mention this code: “LED fetish“, and you will get a freebie. I will have proto PCBs, assorted LEDs, and even working prototypes!
I will also sell my kits at discounted prices! Must come!
As a part of developing new projects, I make PCBs for prototypes. I usually use OSH Park to have my prototype PCBs made. They are great – sophisticated web ordering page compete with full preview of the PCB design, which has helped me notice the errors before ordering. Low, no-gimmick pricing – just $5/sq. inch for a set of three PCBs.
Since I don’t always use all prototype PCBs, I have a few PCBs laying around. Some of them contain errors (that’s the point of prototyping, right?), but most of them (lucky for me) are perfectly functional.
So I want to give away those good prototype PCBs. The schematics and BOMs are provided on this site or instructables already, so you can gather parts and build them!
The qualification is simple – give me/my site a mention and a link on your web site, or if you have made any of my designs, put up a project at instructables (with pictures or/and video). Let me know what you did by either leaving a comment here or email, and I will send you a PCB. (Free shipping within USA only – sorry, international shipping will cost $5.)
I have more than a few good PCBs for the published and unpublished designs. Offer is limited to while PCBs last.
I get a lot of questions regarding surface mount soldering. The thing is, with the right tools and a bit of practice, SMT (Surface Mount Technology) soldering is really not difficult.
First, please view this excellent video created by CuriousInventor.com (no affiliation. I just like this video very much). I’ve been doing SMT soldering for a while now, but was very impressed with the techniques shown in this video.
Here’s the list of tools/material you need:
- Temperature controlled soldering iron/station (such as Hakko FX-888. Standard size tip works fine.)
- Thin soldering wire – 0.015 inch (0.4 mm)
Regular 0.03 inch (1 mm) gauge solder wire is too thick for small SMDs. A very common problem with SMT soldering is to apply too much solder. Small parts like 0603 resister only need tiny amount of solder.
- Flux – pen type flux such as Kester 951 recommended. Apply generously – it will dry out quickly and does not harm the PCB.
- Tweezers with small tips – get a good pair that’s confortable to use.
- Magnifying glass – you can’t solder if you can’t see. I wear magnifier visor (OptiVisor #4).
- Good lighting – you need much brighter lighting then reading a book to see the small details of SMT soldering.
- Solder wick – as excess solder is the enemy of good SMT soldering, you need solder wick to remove excess solder. Perfectly soldering fine pitch packages like QFP is very unlikely without a help of solder wick. Thinner one like 1.5 mm wide is easier to use.
Traditional through hole technology is phasing out, and so many new devices are not offered in through hole style. Learn to solder SMT will broaden your choices.
(Let me know if I forgot to add anything here.)
I’m excited to announce that I will be participating in the upcoming Maker Faire New York! (Sep. 29-30 @ New York Hall of Science, Queens, NY)
Details are not yet known, but I will bring all of available products and possibly some unpublished prototypes. I will post more info as it develops.
Update: My booth will be in Zone A, nysci building.
See you there!
LEDsales has a lot of cool stuff to aid in your projects, so you should check it out.
I realize that many people just want to assemble Aurora kits without having to purchase a PIC programmer. Now I added options to have the PIC microcontroller preprogrammed when you purchase the kits.
Note: PIC IC will be soldered to the PCB in order to be programmed.
Aurora 9×18 mk2 and Aurora 18×18 firmware has been revised to detect the Audio Interface connection at the start up. The Aurora’s will check to see if the Audio Interface is connected to them, and disable the color organ modes (there are two). Which means you don’t have to go through two empty program modes when pushing the button to change modes without the Audio Interface connected.
Many thanks to your support, the first batch of the new Aurora kits shipped out yesterday. There are a few more orders left to ship, however due to the shortage of a part (sorry I did not expect to run out of parts) the rest of orders will have to ship next Tuesday.
I will be updating my instructables to include new firmware, but meanwhile here are the files you need to program the PICs on the new Aurora’s.
There are also online version of the “Part Placement Guides”.
Thank you very much for your support!
I received a lot of pre-orders for the new Aurora’s. Now I will start shipping them this week in first come, first served bases. You will be receiving emails with the tracking numbers.
Thank you again!
Those kits will be shipping next week!
I’d also like to remind people who ordered those kits to check out the Audio Interface. You will save the shipping (I will refund the shipping after checking out, if you have pre-ordered the kit), if you order this weekend.
The kits include everything on the parts list, plus mounting screws & nuts. Those screws will also help you when you solder in the LEDs, by giving the PCB a lift off the working surface.
The smallest SMD parts are 0603 size, which is quite tiny. Naturally it’s very easy to lose them while assembling. Since it’s not much fun having to buy those little parts because you lose them, I’m including a few extras for all 0603 size parts. There are a few extra LEDs included as well. Hopefully you won’t have to stop the assembly because you’ve lost a few parts.
As I should be able to start shipping those kits early next week, the pre-order deals will end this weekend.
Thank you for your waiting. Colour Night Joule Thief kits and PCBs are back in stock.
This video is not done by me or someone I know, butI thought that it would help a lot of people who are new to surface mount soldering. I’ve been soldering SMD for a while now, but was very impressed with the technique shown in this video.
The best part of it is that this guy uses regular soldering tip to do most of the jobs.